What is fashion’s role in a time of crisis? Though these collections were already in development when the coronavirus became a global health threat, Paris’s designers had no shortage of opinions. Kenneth Ize, a newcomer from Nigeria and a finalist in last year’s LVMH Prize, went with unbridled optimism and joy—and a supermodel closer in the form of Naomi Campbell. Marine Serre and Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia faced the darkness head on, with bold experiments in silhouette and upcycling that produced visions both ominous and exciting. Theirs are clothes for survivors.
At Alexander McQueen and Maison Margiela, Sarah Burton and John Galliano have embraced upcycling with sincerity, and results that are both inventive and exquisite. When it comes to responsible production at the top brands, the tide is beginning to turn in the right direction; now is the time for other designers to follow their leads.